Last – Exploring Palermo: A Day on the Hop-On Hop-Off Bus – Day 5
The Train
Today we took a Sicilian Train Trip. Our apartment is about 2 miles from the train station. We decided to take a taxi. The taxi was 20 euros for 4 people. This seemed reasonable. To hail a taxi in Palermo is not the same as Rome. We needed a new app. This one was appTaxi. The app said no more than 13 euros. Our driver said 20. It ended up costing the same on our way back as well. We also paid about 32 euros for 4 people to get on the morning train to Santo Stefano di Camastra. We sat on a platform full of people and waited for the train to come. Everyone then started moving to another platform. We decided to follow. As expected, our train arrived there. We boarded the train.
The views from the train ride were amazing at times with breath taking views of the mountain sides and ocean. The train ride really gave you a sense of the landscape and economy of Sicily. Some parts were run down or abandoned. Some were being cultivated with olive trees and other farming plots. And some of the most breathtaking views of the ocean.
Santo Stefano di Camastra
We traveled through mountain tunnels and estuary bridges. Within an hour we were at Santo Stefano di Camastra. Once we got off the train, we stood at a landing. It had a few small buildings. An angry couple was fighting, and they jumped in their car and sped off. After that we were practically alone at the train station. Looking up at the city almost 300 feet above us trying to figure out how to get to it.
While looking at Google Maps, we saw two choices. One was a very curvy road that seemed very steep. The other was a longer, wider, and more paved road that was three times longer to travel. We decided on the steeper cobble stone road. So for me it was strenuous. For my father in law who has a bad back and was sporting a walker it sounded impossible. He shrugged it off and said let’s try it. So with a little guidance and a leisurely pace we started up.
It became one of the highlights of the day for me. We made a challenge of it and the views were spectacular. Within 30 minutes and a few sit downs later we had made it to the top. The path opened up to a small park littered with cats and a fantastic view of the mountains and ocean. We treated ourselves to a victory photo and tried to determine a place to eat.
We viewed the monument in the square. It looked to commemorate the heroes of a war. We were able to locate my mother in law’s family surnames on the plaques on the base of the monument. Our main reason for coming to the city was because my mother-in-law’s family was from this area. She still had some relatives living here and unfortunately they weren’t so interested in meeting us.
Harold and Steve
I found a cafe on the other side of the town. We proceeded down the main road through the central square and a small cafe. Once we reached the far side of town which was maybe 4 to 5 blocks away. We discovered that my chosen cafe was closed. However, despite my failings, we were greeted with another spectacular view of the opposite side of town overlooking the ocean. We also saw mountains with a fantastic bridge that meandered through them. We decided to head back to the main square and the small cafe we had previously passed. As we rested and waited for our waiter, we overheard a man talking to her in Italian and English. My wife decided to ask the man for help in ordering.
The person we met was named Harold and eventually we ended up meeting his husband Steve. It turns out Harold and Steve and us had quite a few things in common. They had lived in NY for some time as had we all. They originally hailed from Florida as we now resided. Both had attended the University of Florida (Go Gators!). Harold and Steve had first met and fell in love at the Ritz Union some 43 years ago. They were in the process of retiring here in Sicily. They had just purchased an apartment after renting for the past 6 months.
The conversation was amazing. The food was meh, but it was a great afternoon. I ended up following Steven on his Instagram account which he named after his dog bernie_goes_to_sicily. Next up ceramics. This region is known for its ceramics. There is a ceramics store named after my mother-in-law’s family’s surname Ferrigno. We decided to locate it and go shopping.
Ceramics Shopping
Ceramics are a big thing here at Santo Stefano de Camastra. There seems to be quite a history here in Sicily. Everywhere you look there are ceramics outlining the streets in the old town, on the buildings, in the church and even on the fences. The store we were looking for was on a central road just up the hill from where we ate.
We headed over to it. But when we got there, unfortunately it was closed. We snapped a few photos of my mother-in-law by the store entrance. My wife and I bought some ceramics from another nearby vendor to remember our stay. Then we proceeded back down the mountain the way we had come. This time I walked backwards down the hill as my father-in-law walked down with his walker. We made it to the end and took a breather before walking the rest of the way to the station. We had a small espresso shot and waited for the train to Cefalu. The trip from Stefano di Camastra to Cefalu cost 28 euros for 4 people. It was three stops back the way we came.
Cefalu
Cefalu we weren’t there long but the city was amazing in regards to what we saw. Not really sure where we were going we decided to follow the street around from the train station. It ended up leading us into the main part of town and past the main church and it’s central square. It was about a half mile walk. We got there around sunset about 5:30 in the afternoon. This is a weird hour in Sicily. No restaurants are really open because most open around 7 or 7:30 pm. My in-laws took a breather at the main square. Chris and I headed to the water. I clicked a few memorable pictures of the ocean and some cats 🙂 and we headed back to my in-laws. We had a gelato. We got caught in the rain. Then, we headed back to the train station and back to our apartment in Palermo. It was a long but memorable Sicilian Train Trip.
Next – Exploring Sicily: Scenic Routes and Local Lunch Spots – Day 7
